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The Nikon D850 - Still King Years Later

Introduction

This camera is the seminal Nikon DSLR, culminating in Nikon’s years of DSLR development into an extremely well rounded do - everything camera. So many people have dumped it, and other very capable DSLRs and moved to mirrorless. I am a much more tool to task type of shooter, who values the beautifully large optical view finders in Nikon’s D8xx series cameras, and the strengths which they play to.

Specifications

  • 45.7MP BSI CMOS sensor

  • 7 fps continuous shooting with AE/AF (9 with battery grip and EN-EL18b battery)

  • 153-point AF system linked to 180,000-pixel metering system

  • UHD 4K video capture at up to 30p from full sensor width

  • 1080 video at up to 120p, recorded as roughly 1/4 or 1/5th speed slow-mo

  • 4:2:2 8-bit UHD uncompressed output while recording to card

  • 1 XQD slot and 1 UHS II-compliant SD slot

  • Battery life rated at 1840 shots

  • 3.2" tilting touchscreen with 2.36M-dot (1024×768 pixel) LCD

  • Illuminated controls

  • 19.4MP DX crop (or 8.6MP at 30fps for up to 3 sec)

  • SnapBridge full-time Bluetooth LE connection system with Wi-Fi

  • Advanced time-lapse options (including in-camera 4K video creation

D850 Image Quality and Dynamic Range

The D850’s image quality in 35mm format is still class leading, many, many years after it’s release in 2017. Even the Z7II, which on paper is very close, cannot beat it. (it’s actually slightly worse, because if used to the absolute limit, the Z7II autofocus grid is hidden in the data if pulled too hard especially in serious applications such as deep sky work the autofocus grid can be seen. This does not occur ever in DSLR’s as focusing is carried out off sensor). So even present day, nothing is touching this sensor. Let’s look at the D850’s class leading sensor stats from photonstophotos.com:

Nikon D850 Photographic Dynamic Range

This sensor clocks in a whopping 11.63 stop of dynamic range at base ISO of 64. Not only this, the RAW files are so malleable (which these charts don’t necessarily tell us) in post processing. You can pull a file any which way and it holds up. It saves you ifyou screw up when taking the image. The shadow latitude is absolutely insane. One can expose for the highlights, and drag the shadows up to get a realistic image, without horrendous noise or banding like with other brands.

Dual Gain Design

Similarly to the D810 before it, if needing to boost an exposure excessively in lower light - it is best to shoot at ISO 400 due to read noise. (note the little bump upwards in dynamic range here on the graph). What this means is, if in low light shooting portraits, or astro foregrounds, increasing dyanmic range in camera is the same as doing so in post. This is called sensor invarience. However, the reason it is best to keep it at 400 and boost later, is you will retain dynamic range, particularly highlight data. If you crush it up to ISO 6400, your dynamic range will have dropped. The key here, boost it in post. During daylight, to get the best latitude, it is obviously advisable to shoot at ISO 64. The BSI part of the sensor design means the light gathering elements of the sensor are closer to the surface of the chip. This means, that the D850 is even better than the already good D810 at high ISO, and it can be pushed even further. The D810 can produce a slight magenta glow if pushed really hard, at high ISO.

ISO 64

ISO 64 is a magic ISO where one can feel free of dynamic range problems or constraints. For example, if you shoot Sony, Canon or Fuji, you are simply missing out. It’ s ironic for the sony shooters. Nikon sensors are made by Sony; however Nikon tune them and get more out of them than Sony do. ISO 64 is a landscape photographers dream with so much latitude that exposure brackets are needed less and less. NB: Of course, still needed in certain situations.

Electronic Front Curtain Shutter

This one is really useful for us landscape and particulary, astro guys. Yes it stops vibrations, (however I had no issues with the D810, which doesn’t offer this). However, what this does provide is less wear on the shutter at night. Astro often involves many, many exposures, particularly if doing time lapse photography. Using this mode means the shutter stays open and the shutter actuations count will not rise with exposures. The electronic shutter is a huge boon for this type of shooting because of this, potentially prolonging the shutter life of the camera as well as dealing with any vibrations.

Build Quality

The build of this camera reminds me of the D700. The whole D8xx range is superb and although feel like bricks, can take some punishment and come out unscathed. I have never had an issue with this camera in this vein. Simply holding it in your hand confirms the feeling of a well crafted tool. It feels superb and ergonomic and solidly built.

Optical View Finder

The D8xx series have supberb optical view finders that give a superb in the moment feel: you are looking at the scene at the speed of light with zero lag, and zero feeling of tunnel vision with constant use. They are easy to use and compose with. Information on the LCD panel below is sufficient and gives all the details one would want. The only minor thing they should have popped in here is the battery life remaining. (It does come up when critcally low).

LCD monitor

The LCD monitor is extremely high resolution and adjusts to a level that it can be used in bright sunlight. It should, like the D800 have auto brightness, like all phones do. It seems Nikon considers it’s user base confuses brightness with actual image exposure perhaps and removed this function? It tilts in one axis only, my only complaint is that I would prefer a dual axis tilt screen, like the Z 8 and Z9 now have. (This becomes really useful when doing low lying vertical orientated shots, especially at night.

Autofocus and FPS

The autofocus in the D850 is another evolution of the D810. The D810 can’t match the D850 in sports, but this was never really my forte. I have shot some equestrian events, and some motor racing and have always been able to nail it on the D810 and make pictures with fast lenses. That said, close fast moving subjects on the D850 have a higher hit rat with this camera. There are lots of modes and options to make the camera do what you wish it to do. The camera shoots at 7 FPS in full RAW mode, producing gorgeous, highly editable files.


Use Cases:

Deep Sky Astro

I have a tutorial on this here with the D850 used for years to photograph the deep night sky. For this camera body, shoot at a higher ISO for this specific purpose and ignore what I have said above about limiting to ISO 400. Nikon camera’s can produce concentric circles when shooting at too low an ISO and stacking multiple hours of night sky data (commonplace in deep sky astro of course), then stretching it to reveal faint signal afterward. Start at ISO 800 to reduce your chance of problems in this regard.

Landscape Photography

You are in good company if you particpate in this genre. For 99% of shooting, you will be at ISO 64. To maxmise IQ, in lower light, ISO 400 should be selected (dual gain point, below that, the sensor is ISO invariant). I don’t need to say anything more about this camera for this genre as it is tried and tested. In 35mm format, nothing beats it.

Sports

A large bright OVF is what a sports shooter should consider. They spend vast amount of time watching and studying before pushing the shutter. A lot of that time, is spend with the eye pressed up to the finder. Do you watch to watch TV all day? With the OVF advantages (and battery), along with excellent reliable AF and amazing lens selection, you cannot go wrong if you like using a body this size for sports (some prefer the larger nikons).

Portraiture / Weddings

Another obvious win for this camera. Yes it lacks eye AF, but you really don’t need this, not really. Image quality for portraits is excellent, skin tones are sublime and the files are so malleable as with the other genres, this camera is tried and tested.

Macro / Copy work

I am not a macro shooter per se, however I can see no reason why this camera would not be perfect in such disciplines. The high quality, high megapixel sensor will take care of all needs in these situations.

Final Thoughts

I would not have added a Z 8 into the mix if the D850 had a few things:

  • A higher sensitivity in lower light for astro purposes, helping vastly when constructing panos (mosaics) of the night sky

  • A dual tilt screen

  • USB charging

  • I wanted to upgrade my landscape lenses to zooms and wished the latest lenses (24-70/2.8S), (14-24/2.8S with front filters)

If you are a sports shooter, shoot weddings, or portraits, candid or in a studio with lights - think long and hard about why you want to move everything to mirrorless. The main reason I added a mirrorless body was because of the way I was using the D850. I was using the monitor most of the time these last few years, as per common landscape / astrophotography practice. So I am not missing the OVF in that regard. As soon as I want to shoot people, a wedding etc, the DSLRs come out. Don’t necessarily ditch all your DSLRs for the new toys. Tool to task…

Nikon D850 vs Z8 Dynamic Range

As you can see from above technically, I have lost a small amount of image quality at base ISO and at around ISO 400 where there is a small dip in the camera’s range. For the Z 8, we either shoot at ISO 64, or at 500 for this reason (500 is the dual gain switch point in this model and means more stretching and cleaner images can be had, then trying to drag up an ISO 400 shot). At base ISO, the image quality loss is small, but it is still mildly annoying that we have a kind of one step forward, one step back game going on here. Due to the stacked sensor, the Z 8 has about 1/3 of a stop less dynamic range. It makes it’s RAW files slightly less malleable and yes - I have noticed it. Most will not however, and it can be mitigated by good shooting technique. So no need for the sky to fall; however if you want class leading image quality at an absolute steal of a price - you have just won a watch if you pick up a D850, especially right now, or forever…Because of this, it remains Highly Recommend.

Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Star Tracker

The Star Adventurer on a 055 Manfrotto Tripod

I have been using the Star Adventurer 2i for four years now and it is a mount that has enabled me to capture some beautiful astro landscape images and also photograph objects in the deep sky. When I first obtained this mount, I had no idea I would be venturing deeper into the sky to photograph galaxies like Andromeda, or star clusters close up like the Pleiades. When I first received the mount in 2020, I practiced first in my garden and I recommend all users do this where possible.

The Build

Unpacking this star tracker, the first impressions are that is is solid and well built. It requires a tripod (ideally carbon fibre to minimise vibrations, but I have photographed plenty with an Aluminium tripod and it has been fine). This star tracker comes with Wifi, and I will discuss later why this is such a boon if you want to keep things as simple and efficient as possible when shooting under dark skies. Save for the plastic reticule, used for polar alignment, the build of the SA 2i is of very good quality. The knobs and dials all have a quality feel to them and the mount can be powered by x4 AA batteries (I use rechargables), or via USB connection to a powerbank - a really nice function and quick to connect in the field. The pro pack, comes with a metal declination bracket and counterweight (I bought an extra weight for balance - this is crucial for great tracking at 200mm). There is also a ballhead attachment, which I use for astro - landscape pictures, allowing focal lengths of about 85mm and under to be attached via it. The polar scope is nice and clear. I do recommend a right-angled polar scope attachment, to save your neck when trying to align. The included equatorial wedge is of good quality - and much better than some other star trackers in this price point. It has never given me an issue in terms of it’s overall build quality.

Declination bracket for long lenses showing the polar scope connected over this for polar aligning

Polar Aligning and Balancing

When getting setup in the garden, the first challenge is to setup the SA in proper polar alignment and the mount being properly balanced in order that it functions and tracks well. This seems daunting it first, however with some practice you will get faster and better at doing so, like any task. In the northern hemisphere this process is simplified by requiring only to align to one star - Polaris. What you will find is, Polaris isn’t exactly the North Celestial Pole. The NCP is actually located in a circle around this star. The Star Adventurer app, which can be downloaded from Play store, enables information on how to align everything, depending on your location and the time of night. When I first received this star tracker, I luckily had a clear night a few days later (doesn’t always happen), I started with an 85/1.4 prime to give me a bit of a challenge. Polar aligning involves attaching an individual plastic part - a reticule into the SA which illuminates the polar scope and enables alignment. I was pleased that I could get 4 minutes right off the bat with the alignment I set. I didn’t try any more than this as I was pleased I could achieve pinpoint stars for 4 minutes at this focal length. Balancing involves moving the counterweight on the declination bracket so that with the clutch disengaged, no resulting motion occurs. It’s a case of bearing in mind some basic mechanics: Moment (turning force) = F (force) x D (distance). Put simply, use the lever arm on the bracket to place the weight in the place that causes no motion when the mount (clutch) is unlocked.

Nikon Z 8 and 70-200/2.8S with proper configuration and Declination bracket use

Using Wifi and the app

As I alluded to earlier, the Wifi functionality and the Sky-Watcher App really bring this system to life, and make it very simple to use. Classically, if you wished to control a deep sky session with a camera and a mount, you need to use either a laptop, an Asiair, or at the very least an intervalometer connected into the camera. The great thing about Wifi funcitonality, and the app, is that I don’t need any of this extra clutter when I am outside freezing myself to death photographing deep sky objects. I can simply connect to the mount via the phone app, and all I need is one cable running from the camera into the mount. From the app, I can control exposure length, spacing between exposures and even dither in one axis. (Dithering is a process that involves instructions for the mount to move the field of view slightly between exposures so that when stacking images, things like fixed pattern noise and other nasties such as hot pixels get cancelled out of the stack). Essentially this process improves your data and I nearly always use this. Wifi in this mount (indicated by the 2i in it’s title) might seem trivial, however it has made everything so simple to use. I previously tried an Asiair with DSLRs and found it fiddly and had issues with live view. I get very little time under dark skies. I either have cloud, or worse rain, or extremely high winds, or a moon to contend with. On nights that I have time to do this, I don’t want to spend time with laptops and cables running all over the place, troubleshooting one problem after another, with a setup that takes an hour to start shooting, then the same time to break it down at the end of the night. Speak to any deep sky astro shooter - they will tell you they have wasted many nights not taking images. Instead they have been tearing their hair out trying to fix some random technical issue.

The Star Adventurer app is simple and well thought out with no connection issues ever

What can you achieve with the SA?

Essentially, this mount is suitable for tracking skies from extreme ultra-wide angle focal lengths, such as 14mm right up to about 200mm with decent exposure times, with no guiding. I am able to get pinpoint stars at 200mm with 2 minute exposures (be aware of course, that 200mm and 2 minutes needs practice to nail consistently). People are shooting this mount at 400mm and even 600mm, but bare in mind they are binning a portion of their sub exposures due to periodic error and completing very short exposure times of 30 seconds or less to prevent trailing. I have been asked before why I don’t guide - I see many shooting at 135mm-200mm and adding in guiding, it is just not required, as I am proving. None of my pictures are guided! Remember what I said earlier: simplicity is the greatest invention, Guiding would add another camera and cables into the mix, with all the problems associated with it such as laptops and Asiairs to control the device. I will say though, that if you are shooting with a large equatorial mount at a focal length of 600mm and up, you know what you need and it is obvious that to achieve decent exposure times, such as 3-5 minutes - you are going to have to guide. However, we are not speaking about that. I suggest you place the limit of this system at 200mm and forget guiding. If you want to try some ultra deep pictures for fun on this mount, go ahead but keep the exposures short. This system isn’t really meant for that. That would be where the larger mounts come in to play.

About 4 hours of exposures from bortle 4-5 using the above setup

Small Deep Sky Objects with the SA 2i

So since I have said we are topping out at 200mm for the most part, how do we fill the frame with small objects? Well, the answer is: we don’t, but there are several strategies which will help. The first is looking at your camera. I recommend a high megapixel camera, shot in crop mode, or a crop camera. The reason for this is, generally speaking you will get more pixels on target and fill the frame with them better. For example, a Nikon Z 8 (45MP full frame sensor) shot in x1.5 crop mode, gives just under 20 megapixels. The second part to this is enacted in post processing, called drizzle. So let us take Andromeda as an example. Now it isn't the smallest deep sky object, but having it fill the frame is hard at 200mm, but as you can see, I have made a half decent picture of it. Part of this is down to when you process the resulting stacked image, the object physically gets larger. After we have put the camera into crop mode, or selected a x1.5 crop body to begin with in PP, we can do something called drizzle integration. This was developed by NASA. This is a method of obtaining more detail in your resulting file, meaning, if done correctly, we can produce a file larger than 20MP, perhaps put it back to 45MP, and thus crop it much more aggressively in post, enabling a closer view of your deep sky object. To benefit from drizzle, you must have a lot of data, multiple hours. The data also must be dithered, as I mentioned earlier - this mount allows for that. If you are using another mount that doesn’t do this - then this technique won’t work. This along with the other points raised here is one of the many reasons I highly recommend the SA 2i.

Comet C2022 E3 (ZTF) shot with the Star Adventurer mount and a 70-200/2.8 lens, Camera - Nikon D850